Thailand

Thailand is a country in Southeast Asia and perhaps the most visited country in the region. As well as hosting a plethora of its own attractions, and boasting wonderfully friendly people, it is a convenient hub for travel in the region, and offers great value for the budget traveller. For first time travellers to the region, Thailand is a great introduction.

Visas

As always, you should ensure that you have 6 months validity left on your passport. The visa situation may change, so check with your embassy prior to travel to ensure the below information is current.

Note that unless you have a special work/residence visa, you can only spent a maximum of 90 days out of a 180 day period in Thailand.

If Flying

Stays of up to 30 days don't require visas for citizens of many countries including:

• Australia
• Canada
• EU Countries
• Japan
• Singapore
• South Africa
• USA

If Crossing Overland

If you enter Thailand overland, you can only stay for a period of 15 days. You can get another 15 day visa by exiting and re-entering the country.

Weather

Thailand has a distinct wet season and dry season. The peak tourist season in Thailand (Nov - Feb) is part of dry season and it's considerably quieter during wet season.

I've visited Thailand about 4 times in the wet season, and once in the dry season. To be honest, the rain wasn't that much of an issue. I don't recall any single day when it poured all day long, though there were several days with sudden torrential downpours (for an hour or so) and once a pretty crazy storm on Phi Phi that I was sure was going to destroy the hut I was staying in. A word of warning: don't stay in huts with tin rooves under coconut palms during storms - the sounds of coconuts smacking the tin rooves is pretty terrifying!!

Note that it can get cold in the north in the winter time.

Getting there

By Air

A tonne of airlines fly to Thailand. Main international airports are Bangkok, Phuket and Chiang Mai.

• Thai Air A fabulous airline. Great staff, great service, awesome food. Flies to a stack of destinations abroad (and within Thailand)

• Eva Air Flies from Nagoya and Osaka to Bangkok, via Taipei. Decent prices available. It's definitely cheaper to book direct with the airline.

• Air Asia A great budget carrier. Much nicer than Ryan Air in Europe!!. Air Asia flies to several places across Asia. Its hub is in KL, Malaysia, and you can into a number of destinations in Thailand from there. Flights to a number of cities in Asia also fly from Bangkok (e.g. Singapore, Bali, Hong Kong, Siem Reap). If you are having trouble finding a cheap flight to Thailand, consider flying through KL and picking up a cheap flight with Air Asia.

• JAL - flies from Nagoya and Osaka. The most flights of any airline.

• Korean - great airline via Incheon, South Korea.

• KLM This Dutch carrier has cheap flights from Taipei (around 3万 return inc. taxes. You could combine a trip to Taiwan with a trip to Bangkok using this airline in conjunction with Eva Air or Jetstar.

• Cathay - fab airline - via HK or maybe Taipei.

Money

Currency is the Baht. ATMs are pretty widely available all over Thailand though if you're going somewhere really rural, you may need to take whatever baht you'll need with you. Even a fairly popular spot like Railay/Ton Sai in Krabi doesn't have ATMs (2008).

Note that it is sometimes possible to use baht in Laos and Cambodia.

Borders

Note that this information was current at the time it was written, however borders in the region can be a little volatile, so check in advance online on Lonely Planet, check the embassy's current information, or (possibly even better still), talk with other travellers on the road as to their experiences.

Laos

You can purchase a visa to Laos through a travel agency in Bangkok (Khao San Road is an easy place to do this) or from the embassy itself. Probably just easier to use a travel agent - the turn over is pretty fast. Cost will vary according to which passport you carry. You can also get a 30-day tourist visa at international airports (Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse) and land borders - e.g. Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai (Thai border close to Vientiane), Huay Xai/Xiengkhong (North Eastern Thailand, you take a small boat across the Mekong), Thakhek/Nakhonphanom (Central Laos), Mukdahan/Savannakhet (Southern Laos), and Chongmek/Vangtao, (Southern Laos).

• Huay Xai/Xiengkhong Border

  You need to get to Chiang Khong (about an hour from Chiang Rai in Northern Thailand). You'll be dropped at the bus station in Chiang Khong and will then need to jump on a moto/tuk tuk/songthaew to get the rest of the way to the border. You cross the border by a small boat.

• Friendship Bridge close to Vientiane

  Never done this border but it's a pretty popular crossing point so I'd imagine it's straight-forward enough. Trains run frequently between Bangkok and Nong Khai.

• Chongmek/Vangtao Border

  For travel between Pakse (or the 4000 islands) to Ubon Ratchantani and beyond. When I did this....I took a mini-bus, then a tuk-tuk, and then walked, and then another tuk-tuk and then a taxi to get to Ubon Ratchantani train station! It took ages....but it was kinda fun, though ridiculously HOT! Apparently there is now a bus from Pakse to Ubon Ratchatani direct (which continues to Bangkok) though this might only be once a day. Of course it's cheaper to do the trip on your own. Border crossing itself was fine - a bit of a walk between the Thai - Lao Immigration checkpoints and it was a little confusing but not too bad. I befriended a monk, who helped me find my way through and chatted to me the whole way :)

Cambodia

You can purchase a 30 day Cambodian tourist day visa in advance from the embassy or a travel agency in advance. You can also get a visa on arrival at some border crossings e.g. Aranyaprathet/Poipet (for Siem Reap), Hat Lek/Koh Kong (for Sihanoukville and Southern Coast, as well as a few others).

• Aranyaprathet/Poipet Border

  Poipet is a dive, though Aranyaprathet is not so bad. Get through immigration and leave straight away. I've only exited through Poipet, and that was fine, though entering has a reputation of being slightly horrific (scams, hassles etc). The buses between Khao San Road and Siem Reap had a notorious reputation in the past...though it seems to have slightly improved in the past couple of years. For details see this article

  It's easy enough to bus between BKK and Aranyaprathet yourself. I took a local bus and it was cheap and fast. Between Aranyaprathet Bus station and border, you can either take a tuk-tuk (80Baht) or a motorbike taxi (60Baht). Once you cross the border, you should be able to get a share taxi to Siem Reap for around $USD50 (i.e. for the whole taxi - fitting in as many people as possible), or jump on a bus to SR for $US10 - buses leave when full.

Don't believe anyone who tells you that you must change your money at the border into Cambodia. If you have USD or Thai Baht you will be fine. If you do change money, make sure you thoroughly count what they give you.

Also don't accept any random person's help to get your visa processed more easily. The visa cost is standard.

In the past, it has been the case that many travellers crossing overland have had to pay a "fee" (i.e. bribe) to get their visas processed in a timely fashion. In my experience, the fee appeared to vary from traveller to traveller, dependent on nationality, individual negotiation skills and perhaps the whim of the immigration official. Even though the embassy information at the time I crossed indicated that you could pay in USD or THB, the immigration officials insisted on payment in USD. Yes, it's a scam, and of course you should do your best to pay only the official visa cost.

Myanmar/Burma

Following the November 2010 elections, the border regions have become a little volatile and borders may or may not be open at the time you wish to travel. Also, this information in particular, is likely to change. Check the latest on Lonely Planet Thorn Tree　or ask other travellers on the road.

I've not personally done this crossing. There are a couple of border crossings. In the past it was possible to get day passes for US$5 at some borders (e.g. Tachilek), but this only permitted you to travel within a 5km radius of the border. This may/may not be an option at the time you wish to travel. If you wish to travel more extensively within the country, you should apply for your visa in advance. Even if you do an overland crossing, it may be the case that you are unable to travel overland once you get to the Burmese side - i.e. you might have to fly to wherever you are going e.g. Yangon, Mandalay etc. This has certainly been the case for friends of mine who have visited the region, and is currently the case.

China

Get your visa in advance.

Malaysia

Never done this crossing. Check the safety situation in the area as the border regions can be a little volatile. I know numerous people who crossed between Thai/Malaysia between 2003-2006 with no hassles.

Transportation

Getting from Bangkok Airport into town

See Transport in Bangkok section.

Air

You can usually book tickets a few days in advance online or through a travel agency - no problem. Perhaps you need to plan a little in advance if you are travelling during Songkran (water festival).

Thai

Air Aisa

Bangkok Airways - good, reliable airline with decent prices.

Nok Air - budget airline. Note that flights from Bangkok are of DON MUANG airport, not the main Bangkok airport. Make sure you jump on the right bus/tell the taxi driver the correct airport.

Rail

I only took a couple of trains in Thailand including an overnight 2nd class sleeper between Ubon Ratchantani and Bangkok. It was fine. There are reasonably good services across Thailand. Bangkok Railway Station has showers (cold water only) which are pretty cheap and convenient if you are transferring or desperate for a wash.

check out Seat61 Thailand for more info.

Buses

Because of the large number of "independent" travellers in Thailand, it's easy to use travel agents/guesthouses to help you book bus tickets. These tickets may come as part of a package, which incorporates ferry transfer also (e.g. to get to Ko Chang, Ko Tao, Ko Phi Phi etc.). In this sense, they are hugely convenient, particularly to and from Bangkok. Many of these buses have air-con and may/may not have a toilet.

Having said that, the regular public buses (go to the main bus station in whichever city you're in, or whichever one is relevant in the case of BKK) are often excellent, and may be cheaper. You might even get to sit next to Thai people, instead of just hanging out with backpackers.

Taxis

At least in Bangkok, taxis are a convenient way to get between places in air-conditioned comfort. The taxis in BKK run on meters and are really affordable to get to places the skytrain/subway don't go. Even for an individual traveller, it's pretty affordable to use taxis for longer trips across town, and it's safer, and blisffully hassle-free c.f. tuk-tuk rides.

Tuk Tuks

Fun to do once or twice, but often not worth the hassle. Unless you speak Thai or are a ruthless negotiator, you're likely to pay just as much to get a tuk-tuk the same distance as you would for a taxi. And even then, you may well be scammed.... taken to the driver's half-brother's-cousin's-father-in-law's-concubine's-maidservant's gem shop...or something like that. Extra caution if they claim to be your "friend". ALWAYS negotiate the price before you get on.

Motorbike Taxis

Not a bad option for short hops. Negotiate the price before you get on. Definitely not the safest way to travel, but it's pretty fun!

Places

Bangkok

See Bangkok

Southern Thailand

Krabi

An incredibly beautiful region with stunning beaches surrounded by tropical rainforest and dramatic karst. Some of the world's best rock-climbing can be done here. Railay beach (sometimes Rai-leh, Rai-lee etc.) was one of the most beautiful places I ever visited, however it seems to be gradually becoming overdeveloped. Nearby Ton-sai is still a backpacker's paradise. :See Railay for more info

Phuket

Another big island and a convenient enough place to fly into for Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta etc., though you can just as easily fly into Krabi airport (domestically anyway). I stopped here for 2 days in the middle of the SARS hysteria and it was pretty deserted...as in Patong Beach was virtually empty! Great restaurants here but it's pretty much a desination geared towards package tourists/ honeymooners and far too many ugly men soliciting the services of under-aged girls.

Having said that, Phuket is a big island, and offers an array of decent beaches, world class hotels, budget hotels, diving courses etc.

International flights go to Phuket from several countries as well as many places in Thailand. The airport is about 40mins from Patong Beach, and more/less to other places on the island (obviously).Shuttle buses are available as well as taxis.

Some transport to and from Phuket includes the following:

• Buses to Phuket come from all over Southern Thailand as well as from further afield places like Bangkok.
• Boats to Phuket run from Ko Phi Phi/Ko Lanta/Railay. Boats to Ko Similan (a diving hot-spot) also run from Phuket, but are less frequent.
• If you want to take the train, you need to get to Surat Thani and then jump on a bus from there.

If you ever considered jumping aboard a vessel to crew, Phuket is not a bad spot. A friend of mine was able to get a passage to India via Sri Lanka, though I believe this has become more difficult in the past few years.

Ko Phi Phi (Don)

Irrespective of how overly touristed it is (at the time I visited, it was aflutter with Scandinavians), it IS a beautiful island. If you want to come here to snorkel/dive, I wouldn't bother. Even before the tsunami, the reef was in terrible shape. A popular day trip from here will take you around to some of the neighbouring islands, including Ko Phi Phi Leh, which is where The Beach was filmed. You'll also visit a few uninhabited islands, including a pretty cool sand-bar. The nightlife on Ko PP could be perceived as either incredible or lame, depending on what you are looking for. If you want to watch Muay Thai at a bar whilst eating overpriced Western food and drinking $2 rum and coke buckets it's great...otherwise...

Frequent boats run to Phi Phi from Phuket, Ao Nang, Krabi and possibly Ko Lanta.

Eastern Thailand

Trat

Smallish city close to the Eastern border with the Cambodian South coast. Not a lot to do here though the market is pretty cool and the town has a nice, relaxed vibe. I wouldn't make any special effort to get here, but en route to Ko Chang or Cambodia, it's a very pleasant stop-off point for a day or so.

Ko Chang

a pretty big and nice island, close to the Cambodian border. There is a fair bit to do and see here and it's a beautiful island.

Beaches are so-so. If you're looking for great beaches, head to Southern Thailand, but it's not a bad place to chill for a few days en route to Cambodia.

Lonely Beach is not a bad place to base yourself - it's no longer a particularly lonely beach...but it's decent enough, and there are some good places to eat, nearby amenities.

To get to Ko Chang, you need to get to Trat first (about 7 hours on a bus from BKK or 1 hour flying) and then jump on a ferry from there, and then take a tuk tuk to wherever you want to go on the island. It's a big island, so do some research before you go so you can pinpoint which location will best satisfy your requirements.

Northern Thailand

Chiang Rai

I only stopped here for a day en route to Laos so not a lot to say. You can organise treks from here, and if you are heading into Laos through Huay Xai, will pass through here at some point.

Check out the interestingly-named Cabbages and Condoms restaurant (which oddly also has a location in Kumamoto in Kyushu).

Links

• Thailand - Wikitravel